Tips

When Neighbors Disapprove - 6 Tips for Success

1- Know your property.
For the majority of projects that involve a structural change, whether "up" or "out", a full survey by a licensed surveyor is a "must-have". In Seattle, the fee to have a property surveyed averages between $2,500 and $3,000 for a typical urban residential lot and up to $5,000 for larger or more complex lots, depending on factors such as the distance to nearest recorded monuments, the presence of environmentally critical areas (steep slope, known landslides, etc.), and the quantity and complexity of the existing improvements.

For more information about obtaining a survey, including a list of required information and additional items that can save you time and money to have recorded simultaneously, Tips for Getting the Best Survey the First Time.

2- Be a good neighbor.
The golden rule "Do unto others as you would have them do unto you" holds true. If you have been opinionated and difficult in the past about your neighbor's projects, they are more likely to act the same when it is your turn. If you've had troubles in the past, it is a good idea to try to repair relationships in earnest long before you begin the design process.

3- Communicate.
If you plan to change the appearance of the exterior of your home in any significant way (including paint color), it makes sense to let your neighbors know your plans. You are not (necessarily) asking for permission, rather letting them know what kind of disruption to anticipate and how they should handle any issues that arise, such as blocked access, property damage, etc.

4- Know your rights.
Sometimes, questions arise which are difficult to answer with certainty. If your property has easements, encroachments, or other complexities involving property lines, it would be wise to do some research. This may be in the form of a feasibility study, a binding meeting with the relevant parties at your land use department, and/or legal advice from an attorney who specializes in residential real estate law. As an architect, I advise my clients when such additional measures are appropriate. It is less expensive to secure your footing in the beginning than it is to fight your way through a dispute when you are in construction.

5- Have an alternate plan.
One of my former clients planned to add a porte cochere, a historic type of carport, onto the side of his house. His property was located in a historic preservation overlay district, where many of the neighborhood homes had this feature. There was plenty of room on his property, and the structure was permissible under the current zoning code without requiring a variance. However, due to the overlay district, design approval was required from a separate committee, prior to permit approval. When we presented the design for consideration, the neighbors attended the meeting to lobby against the porte cochere - not because they didn't like the idea or design, but because they didn't like my client!

In the end, we did not get approval for the covered carport, but we did accomplish the goal of providing off-street parking by capitalizing on the fact that the committee did not have purview of driveways, curb cuts, or fences. Our "Plan B" was to install tire strips and a parking pad made of permeable pavers. The homeowner now parks where he had originally hoped, and walks up a set of side stairs directly onto his porch, getting out of the rain quickly. When there is no car parked in the driveway, the permeable pavers look like a grass lawn.


Parking beside the porch steps was a viable alternative to a porte cochere.

6- Offer up something.
When all else fails, offer up something. In the past, I've known clients to share or carry the expenses on things such as tree removal or pruning, new fences, landscaping, privacy screens, sewer repair, and burying overhead cables. All of these things cost money, but they are often items which were desired - or would soon have been required.

How Much Will My Project Cost?

Disclaimer: Some of the links below are affiliate links, meaning, at no additional cost to you, I will earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase.  All opinions are my own.

"Do I have enough money?"

The first thing you need to know is that the total cost of your project is made up of both "hard cost" and "soft cost". "Hard cost" is also known as "construction cost". This includes materials, labor, and contractor’s profit & overhead. When you read about "cost per square foot" in magazine articles or ask a contractor what a project cost, this is typically the number quoted.

"What should I use for estimating my project's construction cost?"

To get you started (only a first guess), here are a few resources:

Free Residential Building Cost Calculator  A free online calculator for new home construction from Building-Cost.net, that uses information from the National Building Cost Manual (published by the Craftsman Book Company).

Remodeling Cost vs. Value Report  A regional report by Remodeling magazine of midscale and upscale projects for common types of residential remodeling project. Also lists estimated cost immediately recouped by the resale value of the improvement.

"How Much Will It Cost?"  Published a few years ago by Fine Homebuilding, this is a helpful budgeting tool in a grid matrix format. Requires a paid membership to download (it's worth it).

"How Much Will My Kitchen Cost?"  Same as above, but specifically regarding kitchen remodels. If you pay the membership, you get access to both articles (among others).

Don't forget the "soft cost"...

Expenses not included in the construction cost that the homeowner is responsible for are considered the "soft cost" of the project, such as surveyor’s fees, architect’s fees, structural engineer’s fees, reimbursable expenses, permit fees, and a contingency fund (see below). A good rule of thumb is to budget at least 35% for "soft cost". In other words, construction cost (including sales tax) + 35% of construction cost = project budget.

Have a contingency fund.

The most difficult costs to predict (especially when remodeling) are those which will be paid from your own contingency fund. You MUST have a contingency fund of at least 10%, and I strongly recommend 15-20%. The smaller the project, the larger the percentage. You will rely upon this fund to pay for unforeseen work (conditions that are not visible or predictable prior to demolition). You will also be presented with items during construction that usually include the phrase "...while we're here, it would be less expensive to go ahead and..." Part of my job is to help you differentiate between the "must do" and "would be nice to" items, and to think ahead to other items that may be triggered by these decisions (also known as anticipating the "domino effect").

And, sometimes you need even more...

Some projects have unique features which may require specialized services not included in "hard cost" or "soft cost", such as geotechnical engineering, soils testing, and environmental impact analysis. Landscaping, furnishings, and curtains, are not included in either category, so you will need to create separate budgets for those items.

Other resources:
How to Work With an Architect, by Gerald Morosco, AIA
An excellent step-by-step guide to the architect's role throughout the design and construction process.

Not So Big Solutions for Your Home, by Sarah Susanka, AIA
Regardless of what you discover about your budget, Sarah Susanka's advice in this book, and others in the series, will help you discover how to live large in less space.

Disclaimer: Some of the links in this article are affiliate links, meaning, at no additional cost to you, I will earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase.  All opinions are my own.