Getting the Project Started

"We want to move forward. What next?"

Now that we know we're on the same page (see PREPARING FOR THE ARCHITECT-CLIENT INTERVIEW), we build the foundation for a successful project, beginning with:

Contract and retainer  When the budget, objectives, timeline, and chemistry are all in place, the next step is signing a contract. A retainer is required with your signed contract, which is applied to your final invoice. The retainer is typically 10% of the estimated fee.

Follow-up meeting  This is an opportunity to continue the discussion about design we began during the interview. You may be able to fill in a few blanks that you hadn't been able to earlier, or you may have additional questions, ideas, or inspiration images to discuss.

Measure and draw existing  To get started on a remodel or addition project, I first need to document what is there. This may be limited to relevant areas or include the entire house, depending on the scope of your project. Most Seattle homes that are "typical urban lot" size take two people 3.5-4.5 hours to measure, which includes significant architectural features (walls, doors, windows, etc.), but does not include mechanical or electrical systems and fixtures, or items which would require destructive demolition.

Note: We need to open closets, cabinets, etc. to measure how deep they are and will also take photographs. Access to the attic(s) and crawlspace(s) should be cleared and ladders provided, if needed.

Preparing for the Architect-Client Interview

The first meeting is an opportunity for us both to interview each other. It is very important that everyone that will be involved in the design process be together at the interview so that we all get the chance to ask questions and get a sense for what it would be like to work together.

"What do you need from us?"

Brief written description of your goals for the project, including:

• list of "must-have" items, "would be nice to have" items, and "don't want" items (Note: If all of the people living in the house don't agree about the goals, it is helpful to know what differs.) 
• budget for the construction cost of the project (for more insight into costs, see HOW MUCH WILL MY PROJECT COST?). 
• timeline for the project (when you will be ready to start design, begin construction, and move in) 
• Inspiration photos from magazines, books, vacations, etc. (Note: It is not necessary that these photos be "the answer" to your goals, so don't exhaust yourself trying to find that! It is more helpful that you find photos of things you like, even if the photos represent a variety of architectural styles. A photo of a "cozy corner" may look different for you than it would for someone else, so photos really help me tune into your own personal taste and learn what those words mean to you visually and experientially. Even photos of something you really DON'T like can be helpful for comparison.) 

Information that you may have about the house and/or lot, such as:

• old blueprints - whether original or from previous remodels 
• survey 
• "Improvement Location Certificate" - Sometimes found in your mortgage documents, this is a drawing that shows the outline of your house, garage, etc. (the "improvements"), with dimensions of the structures and of the lot itself. Sometimes, easement information and encroachments may be included in this document. If you do not find a one in your file, you may want to check with your title company to see if there was one obtained on your behalf. I have found that the drawing does not always make its way into your loan document package.
• copy of previous appraisal 
• if you're changing the exterior appearance of the house, it is helpful to know if you anticipate problems with your neighbors 
• neighborhood covenants, if any 

"Walk and Talk"  One of my favorite things to do is to be guided around a house by potential clients, listening to what they do and don't like about their homes. It is fun to learn what they wish for, what they've already changed, and how they see themselves living there.

Decorating the early 1900’s home (Part Two - Kitchens, Bathrooms & Porches)

Here are some highlights from Domestic Architecture, written by architect L. Eugene Robinson, published in 1917. PART ONE of this post contained excerpts regarding living room and bedroom finishes. The excerpts below address kitchen, bathroom, and porch finishes:

Kitchen

• “...cleanliness is of first importance, the treatment of materials should suggest it, and decoration need not be neglected.” 
• “have all surfaces so treated that dust and dirt will show, but will be easy to remove. Here glazed or glossy finishes, or semi-glazed, ...are desirable.” 
• “Plaster may be given a slick, steam-proof varnish or paint, and the wood given an enamel finish.”
• “Wallpapers having a glazed surface are in common use...” 
• “...should be no crevices or angles not easily reached with ordinary cleaning apparatus.” 
• “Severity of design is becoming to the nature of the kitchen. Simple wainscotingsare very serviceable and attractive, and may be counter height, thereby forming a continuous line around the room.” 
• “...counters...should not be treated with paint, varnish or any other material except oil. However, such working surfaces may be covered with a matting of rubber or oilcloth.” 
• “Tile work...is highly serviceable, wainscotings, counters, facings for built-in ranges and floors being the chief parts constructed of this material.” 
• “...main objection to tile floors is their coldness...” 
• “A hardwood floor of oak or maple is best, if tile cannot be afforded. A cheap wood floor may be made very serviceable by laying upon it oilcloth orlinoleum.” 
• “Color...should...suggest perfect sanitation. The best colors are white and blue, but with white or cream may be used green, brown, gray or other color.” 
• “Colors may appear in tile borders, linoleum, wallpaper, painted surfaces and in simple hangings.” 
• “...should be bright and pleasant but not cluttered.” 
• “Extra large kitchens...should have more color than small ones.” 
• Fabulous and fun vintage kitchen photos can be found at www.shorpy.com. For a direct link, click HERE. 

Bathrooms

• “Surface treatments...much the same as those for kitchens. Waterproof materials are practically essential, where water and steam are so prevalent.” 

Porch

• “Porches are really exterior features, and should be treated much the same as other parts of the exterior.” 
• “Light-colored paints and stains generally look better than dark.” 
• “Masonry should not be painted under any circumstances...” 
• “Porch floors of wood should receive several coats of exterior floor paint of neutral color, while the ceilings should be painted white or buff.” 
• “...more than two colors of paint on a frame house should not be used, except perhaps in very limited quantities.” 
• “The main color should cover the body of the house, while the other should serve only as a trim color. Alternate color effects should never be used.”